Caramelized White Chocolate Ice Cream

There are few things that I enjoy more than a good ice cream and cooking shows.  I prefer the professional type shows, others are such a train wreck you can't help but watch.

A few weeks ago my wife and I were waiting for our table to open up at the restaurant, so we headed over to Williams Sonoma.  We looked through the tools and equipment and finished up at the books.  Michael and Bryan Voltaggio just put out a cookbook, they have a unique style and compliment each other nicely so I took a look.  Not only was their book out, but they had a special coming right before Thanksgiving.

I just so happened to be home that night, working in kitchen and decided I would see what they were up to.  As luck would have it the show became a 60 minute commercial were the boys go shopping at Williams Sonoma.  At this point I went back to whatever I was working on, then something caught my attention - Caramelized White Chocolate.

We had been working with this for a few years trying to perfect it.  Following blogs and demonstrations to see what the best way was to get the best flavor.  It is exactly what it sounds like, basically you "burn" the chocolate.  The chocolate is overheated to the point that the milk solids caramelize and develop into a very complex flavor.

A majority of the time this achieved by placing the chocolate in pan and cooking it in the oven temperatures and times vary providing different colors and flavor.  I was in search of more, this technique may be new to some while others may have no idea what it is.  Bryan vacuum packed his white chocolate then placed it in a pressure cooker for 45 minutes.  It reminded me of Christmas morning, what will I find when I open the pressure cooker.  To my surprise it was exactly what he had on the show, a deep dark caramelized white chocolate.  

This result was nothing that I could accomplish in the oven.  The chocolate had a slightly bitter flavor, which I enjoy.  The sweetness of the chocolate was dramatically reduced.  We figured since we had it available it was time to make some ice cream.  

Caramelized White Chocolate Ice Cream Philadelphia Style

819  gr        Whole Milk

36    gr         Non-Fat Milk Solids

33    gr         Granulated Sugar

38    gr          Inverted Sugar

5      gr          Ice Cream Stabilizer

239  gr          Caramelized White Chocolate

Method

1. In a bowl combine non-fat milk solids, granulated sugar and stabilizer

2. Place milk and inverted sugar in a saucepan, whisk in dry ingredients

3. Heat this mixture to 185F - do not boil

5. Add chocolate and warm mixture to 189F

6. Emulsify mixture and strain through a chinois

7. Refrigerate overnight, emulsify again

8. Freeze according to manufacturers instructions

I have found a Pacojet to provide the best results, a conventional batch freezer will work as well.  Caram

The Sphere

A couple of weeks ago Nancy and I were rebuilding our piece from Pastry Live at the Chicago Mold School for the Chicago Restaurant Pastry Chef Competition.  I had been wanting to post how I assembled the sphere and almost forgot to take pictures while I was assembling.

This piece was originally conceived as an interesting technique that I felt would be suitable for a competition where you bring your piece mostly assembled.  When I completed, what we lovingly referred to as "the helmet", Nancy loved it and we incorporated it into the piece.  Now my biggest concern was trying to figure out how to assemble it in a way that would be efficient and clean.  After thinking it through I developed a system to speed up the assembly.

This was the prototype

The fins were created using a simple chablon
This was made using a piece of vinyl flooring

Before the fins set they were placed into a mold to shape them.
The outer sphere was cut using a warmed round cutter

The center was composed of a half sphere with a plate to attach the fins

Once the fins were attached the sphere was placed over them

The piece has the appearance of being able to move.  One of the aspects I enjoyed most of Pastry Live was that we were not allowed to use any commercial molds, other than simple geometric shapes.  We really wanted to play with many of the traditional showpiece elements and break them down and transform them.  That way the basic technique was there, but we gave it our own touch.  The stand you see in the images was what was used in the competition.

Rock n Roll

This is the first technique post, please let me know what you think.

This technique was shown to me by Nancy Carey as we prepared for the National Showpiece Championship.  At first I was a little apprehensive to use it, seemed to be too time consuming.  In the end we were able to streamline the process.  In the end the judges loved the idea, it helped to transition our piece from the white boxes we were using to the darker color of the chocolate.  We also used them to give the piece the appearance it was growing out of the ground.

What you will need -
Formula
1000 gr Dark Couverture
1000 gr Granulated Sugar
Method
1. Combine melted chocolate and sugar
2. Spread evenly between metal bars
3. Allow to crystallize

Tools
Wood rasp
Scraper

Scrape surface with rasp

Continue until surface is evenly scraped

Use scraper to smooth out the surface

Break sheet into rocks

Use the rasp to finish the edges

I have tried this working with tempered couverture and no tempered, there was no significant difference in the final product.  This batch was made with some recycled chocolate we used for another showpiece, as you can see it was a nice finished product.  These rocks were created for the rebuild of our winning piece we are assembling this weekend at the Chicago School of Mold Making.

Relaxation at the top

An interesting reflection

There is nothing like a great meal with that special someone.  This blog is not in anyway going to become a platform to critique meals, that I can guarantee.  However, my wife and I had a fantastic meal, complimented by fantastic service.  Prior to the arrival of all our children we would go out at least once a year to a nice restaurant.  It has been a good three years since we had the opportunity to enjoy an experience like this. 

Everest is located on the 40th floor of the Chicago Stock Exchange Building.  It has a long history of being one of the best.  When you arrive you are buzzed into the garage, met by a valet and proceed up a series of elevators.  This really starts to build the excitement for the meal that you are someone special going somewhere very special.

One of my former students, Molly, is the Assistant Pastry Chef at Everest.  For several months she had been inviting us to come down and finally we had the time, a great reason and the resources to do it.  We were anticipating dinner and Molly was anxiously awaiting us coming in.  In a previous post I mentioned the importance of balance.  That was the main purpose of this meal.  I have spent a considerable amount of time practicing the last few months, the plan was for a nice quiet night out alone enjoying each others company, and that was exactly what we did.  The meal was a marathon, we ate and drank for almost four hours, and the food kept coming and coming.  Here are some photos of what we were served.

The biggest amuse ever!  We knew it was going to be long night.

When you are in a French restaurant could you pass on Foie Gras and figs???

Butter, Gewurztraminer, Ginger and Lobster....Oh my!

 

Halibut and Fricassee of Tomatoes

I could have cut the veal with a plastic fork

Bring on the cheese

I was waiting for this one.  Concord grape gelee with a honey grape sorbet

Asian Pear

Plum Financier

Fromage Blanc Souffle

Kougelhopf

What a great night out!  I have to thank my wife for supporting me before, during and after everything that comes our way.  Molly thank you for putting in the long day and getting everything ready it was appreciated.  Chef Thierry, all I can say is WOW!  I think any chef out there would be humbled to see the quality of food they put out of such a small line.  They are a very talented crew.  While we were in the kitchen it was like watching a well rehearsed dance routine, adding colorful well flavored touches to every plate.  Thanks again!!!!

Stay tuned for the next post, going to talk a little about mystery baskets and pushing through the wall.

Balance

Chef Andy Chlebana
Courtesy of Beja @ Studio 7 Photography

I have been looking for a good way to follow up the start of the blog and really talk about what has recently happened and will be happening in the near future.  Recently came back from winning the National Showpiece Championship http://www.pastrylive.com/ in Atlanta, with my partner Nancy Carey.  In 9 days Stacey and I are competing in ACF 2 person mystery basket.  It has been busy and will be for a little while longer.  Working in a team for a competition is like many other ways we experience in everyday life.  Finding your own strengths and weaknesses with your partner, learning new skills and successfully completing your goals.  This does not always mean winning.  Sometimes it is the journey, not the destination.

Theobroma cacao "geastrum"
Courtesy of Beja @ Studio 7 Photography

That being said, busy is the name of the game.  With competition practice schedules and travel comes sacrifice.  Schedules need to be adjusted and sometimes things are missed, not just the important things but the little things.  The weeks leading up to the competition are the most hectic, we are still unpacking from Atlanta while planning for Indy.  I am looking forward to the weekend after we return, a nice dinner with my wife and a weekend at home.  Things will slow down a little, that is when the fun will start.

Chef Nancy Carey
Courtesy of Beja @ Studio 7 Photography

I know some of you are waiting for demonstrations and new recipes, they will be coming.  I will post pics and descriptions of what we prepare for the mystery basket including some of the new techniques we will use.  It is a work in progress, stay tuned it can only get better!

Here we go!

I have been thinking about doing this for a while.  An old friend helped me work on the name, I like to have a little fun with things and feel that the name of my blog will convey this.  I have worked in kitchens since I was sixteen.  After starting culinary school, I found my true calling to be Pastry.  The last five years I have spent teaching at Joliet Junior College, and it has been great.

The idea for this blog came about through my own continued learning.  Striving to improve whenever possible, and looking for the next good idea in the kitchen.  Of course, the blog will look at scratch items and new techniques, but there will be more to it then that.  Life is not just about food and pastry, there is much more going on around us. Sometimes we need to think about everything and take a step back, scratch  our head and look at the bigger picture.

I have been very fortunate to have a wonderful family who supports me and a great career that seems to constantly evolve and grow.  Much like the way I hope this blog evolves.